Spare the Bur and Spoil the Edge

My arms are sore today.  Too much of my recent shop activity has been focused on welding or CNC machining, neither of which does much for muscle tone.  I need to join a gym I think.

After creating several prodigious piles of shavings, I noticed that my #6 was getting dull, it was requiring more force to move it through the length of the stock.  I did a quick touchup, freehand, on a fine oil stone.  I got a nice bur on the back – in fact I chased the bur back and forth as I took it off the back I formed a bur on the front.  I think that means the oilstone I has using is too coarse.

The re-sharpened blade was better, but not great.  So I decided that I needed to put a better edge on it using my waterstone.  I’m still a neophyte sharpener.  This #6 Bailey is a very recent ebay purchase, and it came with a good edge – so this is the first time I sharpened it myself.  I worked the back to a mirror finish — it was reasonably flat but dull and pitted when I got it.  Then I used my Veritas MK II jig and worked the edge with the 1000 and 8000 stones.  It didn’t develop a bur, although the bevel appeared to go to the edge and it felt sharp.  I dismissed the lack of a bur on the back and tried it out.  Better, but still not great.  I need to re-grind the bevel because I obviously didn’t get a truly sharp edge.

But, in more interesting news, I have the second face planed straight, without twist and essentially square to the rough face.

The doug fir planes nicely, although I get a little tear out where the grain reverses around knots.  Stupid knots.  I am able to work out the twist pretty reliably now, but I still struggle with flat at the beginning edge.  It seems to end up lower there than the rest of the face.  I need to work on my technique I suppose.

Even knowing that I had a slight dip at the end of the second face I decided to try the two boards together so I could see how I was doing.  I didn’t think I could get the face right until I spent the time to get the blade on the #6 properly sharpened.  There is a gap at the right end of the joint, where the red arrow is.  It’s not bad, maybe 1/32″.  It looks bigger in the picture because I cut a small bevel on the edge of both boards.  I have to remove so much material for the adjacent faces that it’s a non-issue.

I like it.  I don’t like the knots.  I read that a toothed blade can be helpful there.  Between that, sharp, and low angle I think I’ll be able to deal with them.  Time will tell.  Hopefully another few hours will result in a perfect fit and a glued up assembly.

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