I snuck a few minutes in the shop to experiment with what I want to do for the bottom of my saw chest.
I cut a bunch of 12″ long 1″ x 4″ white pine boards, and shot one end square. I’m not going to bother squaring up all 6 faces as I don’t think it’s necessary, but I wanted to make sure one end of each piece was square so I could line them up.
Then I planed one face – just to remove the dirt, and assorted dings and dents from the big box store.
Then I did a quick sharpen job on the blades for my Stanley 48 T&G plane, and made some test cuts. it seemed to work OK, but the result is a little rougher than I’d like. I’ve read that this is typical, but I’m going to spend a little more time honing the blades to see if I can get better results.
Also, the tongue doesn’t fit into the groove without persuasion – but it’s easily corrected with a few swipes of the shoulder plane. I suspect that I can tweak things slightly to get the fit correct right off the plane. Used hand tools always always seem take a bit of fiddling to get the working properly. Not surprising if you figure that these have been in a box or sitting on a shelf somewhere for 50 years.
The tongue cut seems to do a better job than the groove.
There is some tearout in the groove. Sharper blades, more care to keep the plane vertical, and perhaps a slightly lighter cut will probably help a lot.
The last step is to cut a small 1/16″ bead. Again, this tool probably needs to be a bit sharper. I can only use it in one direction, so the odds are I’m going against the grain sometimes – which leaves a fuzzy surface in places.
Aesthetically I’m trying to decide between one bead or two. One seems too small and dainty. The only other beading plane I have is a 1/4″, but it’s too big to use next to the T&G joint (no clearance). Maybe I’ll try a ship lap with a larger bead?