Saw Chest, Adding a Skirt

I ran to the store and picked up more white pine.  This stuff is awful.  I picked through all the stock to find the straightest boards – which isn’t to say these were straight.  But they were straight enough, I planed them up square and cut the ogee into the top edge.  I have that molding plane working pretty well now.

My biggest job today was to re-grind and sharpen the blade in my #8.  I nicked it yesterday and took a small chip out of it. It’s a Hock blade, and it took a lot of work to get it back in shape.  It’s sharper now.  I flattened the back, which was pretty far out of flat.  What’s up with that?

I cut the miters with my new Langdon miter box.  The saw needs to be resharpened, but it’s usable.  I glued the face of each, and glued the end grain at the miter too.  I nailed the skirting on, including sinking a couple of brads into each miter.

It’s not a thing of beauty, but it’s going to be functional.  I’m looking forward to working with some nicer wood in the future.

The lid is going to be a frame-and-panel piece with a skirt.  I think I’ll do bridal joints on the ends of the rails and stiles, it will be good practice as I haven’t done that before.  After that I just need to make some dividers to hold the saws and paint the chest.

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2 thoughts on “Saw Chest, Adding a Skirt

  1. Bridle joints make it easy to bury the groove for the panel. I think I’ll do that for my lid also. Got to do some reading on how make a skirt for it as I haven’t done that before. What kind of molding plane made your edge? Is it a wood one or a combo plane? No whining router can match a planed profile.
    ralph

  2. Hi Ralph,

    That was my thinking too, that it would make it easier to hide the groove. I looked through several books last night, including Wearing’s. He shows a standard mortise and tenon for a cabinet door with the haunch on the outside to fill the groove. Probably stronger, but it looks harder. I’ll have to make a couple of practice joints. I need to research the top skirt too. And restore a tenon saw so I have something to cut this joint with. One step forward…

    The edge was done with a wooden molding plane. I think technically that profile is called an ovolo. It took 20 or 30 minutes to get the iron in shape, but then cutting the profile is *fast*, and the finish is so much better than a routed edge. I’m definitely a convert.

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