Scottish Mitre Plane

True confessions: I’m a tool addict.  I love tools.  I could almost imagine being a tool collector, but that doesn’t quite ring true for me.  I like using the tools and making things too much.  But it’s that close.

I like to make tools too.  I made a few chisels and wooden planes years ago when I was doing power tool woodworking.  I gave away most of the chisels as gifts, but I still have this one.  It’s O1 tool steel on the bottom, forge welded to a steel and nickel damascus billet.  I shaped the handle to fit my hand, with the idea of using it to pare joints.

Lately I’ve been thinking about making some metal bodied planes.  My first thought was a “Lancashire pattern shoulder plane” like this one.  It’s an interesting design and I haven’t seen a lot of them around.  I’ve been collecting pictures of them, and there is a lot going for this design over a standard shoulder plane – like the skewed blade and the handle.

But lately I’ve been leaning toward a miter plane.  Since I had my CAD software fired up last night to program the toolpaths for the plane adjusting hammer I started doodling around with some ideas for a Scottish Mitre plane.

I started with the basic geometry, 15″ long, 10 degree bed angle, bevel up, 25 degree primary bevel, 1/4″ thick by 2″ wide blade.  The throat is 1/3 of the way back from the front.  I mapped out the basic dimensions in SolidWorks and then just roughed in a design.  I’m not totally happy with it, but it’s a starting point.  I need to look at more images of traditional infill mitre planes, and just stare at this one for a while.  I think it needs to be a bit wider, and I want to play with different shapes for the side profile.  Some mitre planes are flat across the top, I think that would help with the alignment when shooting.  Since I a low bed angle I need to have the back cut away for the blade to exit.  But this is how design works for me – I get a first cut done, then make alternate versions and see what works visually.

Categories: Uncategorized | 6 Comments

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6 thoughts on “Scottish Mitre Plane

  1. That looks cool and a good place to start. Make sure about appropriate clearance angle. The proposed10 degree bed angle would be lower by a bit than than the L-V and L-N Low Angle Jack’s (large block) plane beds. On the L-V, the primary bevel on the plane iron is ground at 22 1/2 degrees. I like that because you can then raise the angle two and a half degrees for a micro bevel that finishes at 25 degrees. For shooting board work, high side walls are good for stability, plus the deeper cavity gives your fingers more room to curl around and contact the lever cap and blade.

  2. Thanks for the feedback Tico.

    I don’t have any good information on clearance angles as they relate to bevel-up planes. One of my books talks a bit about clearance angles for bevel down blades with chip breakers. Can you point me toward more info on this?

    I’d hate to make one of these and not have it work!

  3. Thanks Tico. I have Ron’s book, I’ll dig it out later.

    This link also helps: http://homepages.sover.net/~nichael/nlc-wood/chapters/caop.html

  4. Wow! I love the cad drawing! Can’t wait to see this develop. I new you could do this.

  5. forget the plane, make more of those chisels! Damn fine piece of work!

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