So I can check the winding sticks off of my project list now.
I’ve been using two 1″ square bars of aluminum, which work great, but they don’t have any class. Last week I picked up a small piece of mahogney — no idea which species, I chose it because it was the least pretzel-like. It totally annoys me to pay premium prices for S4S lumber and still end up with bowed, cupped and twisted stock. Where is the justice I ask you?
I spent way too long planing these pieces flat and to thickness. For some reason I really struggle with long, narrow bits of wood. Just the face sides, the edges are no problem. I re-sharpened my plane blade and checked to make sure it was properly set up. I checked my “technique”. I eventually got them whipped into shape. Some days power tools like a jointer and planer sound like a really good idea.
Small aside: I should have bought the Tormek wet grinder. I thought “I have a small bench grinder, I’ll just pick up a Norton 3x wheel and a Veritas tool rest” And a wheel dresser. Surprise, after buying two 3x wheels (at $45 each) and the tool rest (another $45ish) and the tool holder for the rest ($30 maybe?) I discovered that my bench grinder had gone quietly into that good night. Quick run to the hardware store for a new bench grinder at $45 (actually it took almost two hours because I got stuck in traffic), only to discover that the Veritas tool rest hits the bracket for the factory tool rest…so I cut it off. Then I realized that the Veritas rest would really prefer to be used with an 8″ bench grinder because of its size and where the bevel ends up on the wheel. So I’m into this setup for over $200 and I still have to make a stand for the grinder. I tried this setup out today with everything clamped to my welding bench. I’m not impressed with the results. Sigh. I get a far superior “grind” using my Veritas sharpening fixture on a stone. It’s too slow though.
After the distractions of blade grinding, I got back to work and got the stock square on all six sides. Then I laid out a bevel and planed it in. I inset gold perl dots in the center of the winding sticks to aid in positioning them on the center of the board, and I inlaid two little squares of gold perl in the top corners of one winding stick to help sight things in. Sanding, wipe with water, lightly sand to remove the raised grain, and I applied a splash of dark red mahogany aniline dye. And a coat of oil/varnish. I’ll lat that dry for a day or two and then give them a coat or two of shellac.