Starting a New Project

I need to make a few christmas presents, first off is a shaker candle box for my Mom.  I have a piece of Cherry that I plan to use for this.

I decided that that before I started cutting wood I’d sharpen all my tools.  I’ve made one of these boxes before so I had a pretty good idea which tools I’d be using.  I ended up sharpening most of my chisels, my marking knife, my jointer and my smoother.  I decided to add in my block plane and my LN 140 too.  I’m going to try creating a small rebate on the inside of the tails to  help with alignment.  The Sandvik chisels I’ve blogged about before.  They sharpen fairly easily, which is a good thing.  Maybe they will hold an edge better in Cherry than Fir.  The Japanese chisel is a dovetail chisel that I’ve had forever.  I have to sharpen it freehand as it doesn’t fit in any of my jigs, I need to get better at freehand sharpening…or get a jig that would work with it.

Tools to be Sharpened

Tools to be Sharpened

I laid out all of my current sharpening junk.  Shovels and rakes and implements of destruction.  And a woobie.

Sharpening Tools

Sharpening Tools

I only used the 220 stone on a couple of chisels that were in bade shape.  In general I shaped the bevel with eh 1,000 grit stone, then did the micro bevel on 4,000, 8,0000 and 16,000.  Using a jig I can get my my tools very sharp fairly quickly,  Honestly, I haven’t been satisfied with the results from my smoother yet (LN #4).  I d’ get a too-thick shaving (or none at all), and plane tracks.  I can get a whispyier shaving from my #8.  It’s better after sharpening it today, but I’m still getting tracks.  I checked for nicks in the plane body, and lightly cambered the blade.  More practice and experimentation.

I made a little fixture to set the chisel in the $9 honing jig I use for my chisels.  This gives me a 25 degree angle.  “Made” is a little bit of an overstatement, it’s obviously two scraps of pine glued together.  But it works just fine.

Setting the Chisel in the Jig

Setting the Chisel in the Jig

Once the primary bevel is set and I have a burr on the edge I shorten the stickout by 1/8″ (using a ruler as a spacer).  This raises the angle slightly so I  can add a micro bevel.

Setting the Length for the Micro Bevel

Setting the Length for the Micro Bevel

Overall I probably spent an hour and a half sharpening, but some of these tools needed a lot of attention.  I spent time improving the flatness of the backs on many of these tools, and a couple had badly nicked blades.

Ready to Do Damage

Ready to Do Damage

 

Giant Paring Chisel

Giant Paring Chisel

 

Categories: Uncategorized | 5 Comments

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5 thoughts on “Starting a New Project

  1. How do you like the Veritas honing guide? I have the same one and I cant keep anything I put in it from slipping when I use it. I freehand my bench chisels on diamond stones and my LN chisels on a waterstone with a honing guide – modified ala Deneb.
    All my free hand chisels have slanted edges so every so often I have to straighten them out on my water stones with a guide. I’m not terribly happy with any sharpening system I’ve tired but the diamond stones are #1 with me.

  2. The Veritas system is terrible for chisels in my experience, but for plane blades it’s great. It won’t hold a chisel at all, they slip too easily. Plane blades seem fine, although I had a few slip at first. The problem was the clamp bar was slightly bent from trying to clamp a chisel tightly enough. Once I got that straightened out it clamps OK on plane blades. I only just tried the “skew” attachment, and it was perfect for sharpening the blade on my LN 140.

    For chisels I’m pretty happy with the $9 Eclipse guide and my little block of wood to set the length so I get consistent bevels and micro bevels. But it doesn’t really register on the sides of the chisels as well as it should because the side bevels on my chisels are not very sharp. It won’t work with my Japanese dovetail chisel or my big paring chisel either so I have to freehand those. Or my LN skew chisels for that matter. They need a different clamp mechanism for that system to work properly with chisels. Maybe if the clamp bar was wider and thicker so it wouldn’t flex, and maybe it if has a small rubber insert that would help grip the blade that would make enough difference.

    I found too that I was using a lot of hand pressure with the DMT stones to get them to cut aggressively, I haven’t had that need with the Shapton stones. The DMT stones worked OK for shaping the blade and developing the micro bevel, but I was trying to use the 8,000 grit DMT stone to polish the edge and it didn’t work at all for me. No polish, I think they sold me a blank hunk of steel with no grit.

    • LN is coming out with a new “eclipse” style honing guide in 2013. It’s a souped up well engineered honing guide and it’ll be made by LN so you know it’ll be over the top. Deneb showed me a prototype and I ordered one on the spot.
      My veritas guide slips on anything I put in it. Chisels, plane irons, it doesn’t matter. I can’t get anything to stay put in it. It’s in the junk drawer and I won’t sell this piece of crap to anyone else.

  3. Dean

    I don’t know if you’ve seen this video or not, but you may find it of value in modifying your “Eclipse” honing guide if you have not already done so. He does talk about modifying it for plane blades and chisels. I realize you have a nice Veritas for your plane blades so maybe for your chisels. Other readers of this blog may find it helpful as well.

    • Thanks Dean. I’d seen that before, but it’s worth a second watch.

      At WIA Pasadena this year Denab spent some time with my son showing him how to sharpen, adjust a plane and use it. He’s a first class act in my book.

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