Continuing along on my mission style adaptation of the Byrdcliffe cabinet…
I cut the “horns” off of my glued-up door and carefully planed the four sides until it was a snug fit into the opening. I have a pair of non-mortise hinges I may use on this, but until I’m sure I’m not going any further with fitting the door. I also need to figure out a stop block for the door to close against, and some sort of catch. Maybe a small block of wood with a rare earth magnet, although I’m considering making a a “Krenov catch”. Needless to say, I’m very happy with the fit. My next step is to sort out the hardware and and clean up the glue squeeze out in preparation for finishing.
Speaking of finishing, I have some scraps of White Oak in a fuming out in the shop now. I pulled one piece after 3 hours and it was too subtle. After 7 hours I pulled another. It’s darker, but still too subtle. It also has a greenish cast, but I think that’s expected. More on that later.
The next big thing on this cabinet is to make the glass panel for the door. I’m using a Dard Hunter design for this. To get the layout for this I started by updating my CAD model of the door that I did to figure out the joinery. I made it as accurate as I could, then I imported the design as an image and essentially traced over it with lines and splines. I’ll print out a full sized pattern at Kinkos on their large roll printer, as it’s a little larger than I can print on my home machine. I picked out the glass that I want to use and ordered it today, hopefully it will come before next weekend, but I’m not holding my breath.
I’m going to do this using the copper foil (or Tiffany) method because that’s what I know how to do, although using lead came would be more traditional. I’ll try the “leaded” approach some time, but I don’t want to mess with it now. My guess is that leading would be way faster then foiling all of the individual pieces and soldering all of the seams.