Byrdcliffe Door, Continued

Continuing along on my mission style adaptation of the Byrdcliffe cabinet…

I cut the “horns” off of my glued-up door and carefully planed the four sides until it was a snug fit into the opening.  I have a pair of non-mortise hinges I may use on this, but until I’m sure I’m not going any further with fitting the door.  I also need to figure out a stop block for the door to close against, and some sort of catch.  Maybe a small block of wood with a rare earth magnet, although I’m considering making a a “Krenov catch”. Needless to say, I’m very happy with the fit.  My next step is to sort out the hardware and and clean up the glue squeeze out in preparation for finishing.

Door before trimming

Door before trimming

Door fit to the opening - I'll remove more material once I'm sure what hardware I'm using.

Door fit to the opening – I’ll remove more material once I’m sure what hardware I’m using.

Speaking of finishing, I have some scraps of White Oak in a fuming out in the shop now.  I pulled one piece after 3 hours and it was too subtle.  After 7 hours I pulled another.  It’s darker, but still too subtle.  It also has a greenish cast, but I think that’s expected.  More on that later.

The next big thing on this cabinet is to make the glass panel for the door.  I’m using a Dard Hunter design for this.  To get the layout for this I started by updating my CAD model of the door that I did to figure out the joinery.  I made it as accurate as I could, then I imported the design as an image and essentially traced over it with lines and splines.  I’ll print out a full sized pattern at Kinkos on their large roll printer, as it’s a little larger than I can print on my home machine.  I picked out the glass that I want to use and ordered it today, hopefully it will come before next weekend, but I’m not holding my breath.

I’m going to do this using the copper foil (or Tiffany) method because that’s what I know how to do, although using lead came would be more traditional.  I’ll try the “leaded” approach some time, but I don’t want to mess with it now.  My guess is that leading would be way faster then foiling all of the individual pieces and soldering all of the seams.

Glass selections for the door

Glass selections for the door

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5 thoughts on “Byrdcliffe Door, Continued

  1. Your cabinet is starting to look great. Nice grain in the door and your stained glass design is cool.

  2. Wow! That looks great. And that white oak looks phenomenal.

  3. Jeff, Daniel – thanks! I’m getting excited about this project, I think it should come out pretty nice.

    I’m doing an experiment fuming some scraps with Ammonia, so far I’m not loving it. The figure doesn’t seem to “pop” any more than the dyed/stained samples, and it has a weird greenish-brown cast. I’m going to put a coat of linseed oil, garnet shellac and then brown wax and see how it looks at that point.

    • Brent Kinsey

      Joe,
      I tried fuming at home a couple of years ago and was worried about the green hue as well. Don’t worry, when you add oil, shellac and wax it will completely transform the look. To me it seemed richer than anything I had achieved with stain or dye. Let me say that I am a novice finisher and your dye results may be much better than I had achieved up to that point. To those wanting to try fuming with industrial ammonia: do not try it without a respirator equipped with cartridges rated for ammonia and wearing heavy rubber gloves. The fumes are really dangerous when you open the fuming tent. Do not keep the remainder of the ammonia in the plastic container in your garage where you keep the car. When the plastic breaks down and the ammonia leaks, the fumes wreak havoc on the paint and lenses on your car. DAMHIKT. The cabinet is looking great. I can’t wait to see the stained glass door.
      Brent.

      • Thanks Brent. I’m really on the fence in terms of finish. The fumed piece came out nice too. It’s a little browner than I’d wanted, and I *think* the ray fleck is a little more dramatic, but that could be the difference in the wood samples too. I’ll have to look at my sample pieces in the daylight and make a call.

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