Posts Tagged With: cadfael

Limbert 305 1/2

Sometimes I think CAD should stand for “Computer Aided Distraction”, but I suspect the real flaw lies somewhere deep in my psyche.

This weekend I hope to crank on the stained glass for the door in the cabinet I’m making, but I’m already thinking ahead to the next project.  I want to make a clone of the Limbert 355 or 356 bookcase.  They are the same except one is wider by the addition of a second door, which is probably the version I’d make as we always need more storage space for books.  I think the 355 single door version is a little more elegant though.

Limbert 356 Bookcase

Limbert 356 Bookcase

Well, one thing leads to another, as it often does, and I bought a reprint of the 1903 Limbert catalog hoping to find more information on this bookcase.  Turns out it doesn’t show up until the 1904 catalog.  But…there was this interesting “cabinet” in the 1903 catalog.

I’m not sure whether it’s a table, a stand or a cabinet, but the catalog calls it a cabinet so I’ll do the same.  Here is what it says:

No. 305 1/2. Cabinet. 12″ deep, 16″ wide, 41″ high, oak, opalescent art leaded glass in upper panel of door, finished in any color.  Price, $17,00.

It struck me as an odd piece, and since the catalog only shows a simple line drawing I was curious.  I googled for extant example, but came up empty.  So I decided to model it in CAD to see what it might look like.

Limbert 305 1/2 from the 1903 catalog

Limbert 305 1/2 from the 1903 catalog

Starting from the overall dimensions I started setting the sizes for various parts by eye.  I think I’m pretty close, although line drawings like this are inherently inaccurate.  Think about building something from an Escher drawing.

Before I actually model it in 3D I need to think about material thicknesses, joinery and setbacks.

Rough dimensions for the front

Rough dimensions for the front

Rough dimensions for the side

Rough dimensions for the side

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Mission Sconce Plans

I’ve been tweaking my design for a “mission style sconce” today, and I think I’m happy with the current design.  I need to print out a full size drawing at Kinko’s once more to verify the size, but I think I’ve got it.  If you want plans, you can download them here.  I’m going to start cutting parts for it this weekend.

The original version was just a little too big for the room when I printed it.  I narrowed the wall plate, and shortened it, shortened the horizontal arm, and changed the size of the glass share (and dragonfly contours) multiple times.  I added some ebony pegs to the bottom.  I think this is “final”.

Final Sconce Design?

Final Sconce Design?

I did an updated rendering, but just with “plain glass”.  To render it with the actual stained glass design requires some extra CAD work to model the lead beads and split it into separate pieces so I can have a different rendering plan for each one.  I’ll do that later as an exercise — I want to wait to make sure I don’t need any more design changes first.

Rendering without stained glass

Rendering without stained glass

The color of the glass in the rendering is from the preview picture of the actual glass I plan to use for the background of the sconce.  I have some of this, and a nice iridized red/white wispy glass ordered already.

Glass Colors

Glass Colors

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Designing a Mission Sconce

One of my ulterior motives with woodworking these days is to slowly fix up my house.

It’s a nice house in a desirable area, but the demands of working and raising a family have distracted money and attention elsewhere the past few years.  I eventually want to make new kitchen cabinets, and some other smaller remodeling projects.  While I’m making this Byrdcliffe-inspired cabinet for the guest room I realized that the lighting in that room isn’t right.  There isn’t any built-in lights in the room, the wall switch controls a plug.  I’m not a big fan of overhead lights (and my wife absolutely hates them), so the lack of an overhead light ins’t a big deal in itself.

My idea is to make a pair of sconces that can hang on either side of the main window in the room, and wire them into the wall switch.  That means tearing into the drywall to get the wires where they need to go, but we’ll cross that bridge when we get to it.

Since I’m using a Dard Hunter design for the glass in the cabinet door, I decided to use his art as inspiration for the sconces too.  I thought this dragonfly design could be interesting in a sconce.

Dard Hunter Dragonfly Design

Dard Hunter Dragonfly Design

I modeled my idea in CAD, basically a simple Oak L-bracket with a corbel, and a stained glass shade.  I’m not 100% satisfied with the design, but the way this works for me is I need to take a cut at the design and then come back to it later.  Generally I see things that I can tweak to make it better.  I also find that it’s too easy to get the scale wrong on this sort of thing – so I’ll print out the pattern full-scale at Kinkos later this week so I can hold it in place in the room and make sure the size is OK.

Overall I like it, I think I’ll probably make this next. (the colors for the glass in the rendering are lame-o, this is just a quick rendering to check the overall effect)

Design for a sconce

Design for a sconce

Sconce Design

Sconce Design

Layout for Sconce

Layout for Sconce

 

EDIT!


I printed the pattern for the glass and it seemed too big.  The dragonfly body was also a bit off (and a bit too phallic, pfrankly) so I made a few changes.  I shortened the wall bracket, and pulled the shade closer to the wall.  I also tweaked the body of the dragonfly, and shortened the shade.  I like it better.  I’ll print out a scale drawing of the whole contraption tomorrow and hang it on the wall to stare at.  I didn’t re-do the renderings – maybe after I’m sure this is the right scale.

Updated model of the sconce

Updated model of the sconce

 

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