Posts Tagged With: marquetry

Found It

I picked through the extra parts — luckily not all of the ones in this pile — and found five of the last six parts of the rose marquetry.  Then my wife came out to help.  She told me I was insane to do this, then promptly found the last part I needed.

I’m going to leave this project alone the rest of the weekend to clear my head.  It’s down hill from here anyway, sand shading, re-assembly, glue up, mastic, etc, etc.

This is the pile of left over chaff.  The main lesson in this project is better part organization.  I did much better this time, but next I'll do even better in terms of keeping parts related to each other.

This is the pile of left over chaff. The main lesson in this project is better part organization. I did much better this time, but next I’ll do even better in terms of keeping parts related to each other.

Complete picture dry-assembled.  Sand shading is next to add depth.

Complete picture dry-assembled. Sand shading is next to add depth.

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Rose Marquetry, Part 452

I’m probably three hours into assembling this marquetry picture, and it’s definitely kicking my butt.  It’s some kind of sadistic jigsaw puzzle created by a psychopathic game designer.  Imagine a puzzle where all of the parts are the same color, and are so small you need to use tweezers.  Now mix seven different colors of the same puzzle, and remove a half dozen critical parts.

But I’m so close to moving on to the next step.  I have probably six more parts to find…or re-make, then I can start the sand shading process.  We’ll see if I have the patience to work on this more today.

Here is the picture, test assembled.  The all-red roses have no depth or separation between the parts without sand shading.

Here is the picture, test assembled. The all-red roses have no depth or separation between the parts without sand shading.

Here is a close up of the problem area.  Maybe I can get my wife and son to comb through the remaining parts one more time before I have to resort to re-making these parts.

Problem area.  The piece of Mahogany background doesn't fit right, and I'm missing 3 stems, two leaves and a bit of background.

Problem area. The piece of Mahogany background doesn’t fit right, and I’m missing 3 stems, two leaves and a bit of background.

 

 

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Jigsaw Jeopardy

Truth be told, I’m not a fan of jigsaw puzzles.

Nevertheless, I just spent an hour after work sorting through a pile of little veneer shapes from this (and another tray of bits)

Too many pieces.  Since I'm stack cutting using the "Boulle" method I have 7 of each part (background, 3 greens, 3 flower colors) plus the front and back "waster" veneers from the packet.

Too many pieces. Since I’m stack cutting using the “Boulle” method I have 7 of each part (background, 3 greens, 3 flower colors) plus the front and back “waster” veneers from the packet.

To start assembling the marquetry picture I’m working on.  I’m assembling it onto low-tack shelf paper.  Once I have the colors all composed, I’ll remove the parts a few at a time and sand shade them.

It only seems tedious when you’re doing it…

Assembly so far.  I'm having trouble locating a couple of small leaves...I'll move on to the remaining two flowers and maybe they will turn up.

Assembly so far. I’m having trouble locating a couple of small leaves…I’ll move on to the remaining two flowers and maybe they will turn up.

Even with the mix of colors, it still looks flat without sand shading.  But first I have to find all of the little bits!

Close up of one flower, this is about the size of a silver dollar.

Close up of one flower, this is about the size of a silver dollar.

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Everything is coming up roses

Yes, more marquetry.

I’m not going to get any shop time this weekend, but I wanted to set up for my next marquetry project.  “Set up” in this context means laminating newsprint onto the show face of the veneer with hot hide glue.  And sticky fingers.  My wife walked in the shop when I had a sheet of newsprint stuck to my hands and I was waving my arms to get it off.  That’s probably an image that won’t go away.

Here are the raw materials for the next marquetry project.  Backer (and "fronter") sheets, veneer for all the colors in the picture plus the background, and a reversed copy of the design.

Here are the raw materials for the next marquetry project. Backer (and “fronter”) sheets, veneer for all the colors in the picture plus the background, and a reversed copy of the design.

The design I’m going to do (note the positive attitude!) came from the UK marquetry society member’s library, it’s one of my favorites.  At least as a line drawing, I expect seeing it in color will be pretty good too.  I like that there is a lot of motion and detail, but that none of the parts are microscopic.

Here is the design, and the veneers I'm using.  Light, medium and dark green for the foliage and stems, bloodwood, bubinga and satinwood for the flowers.

Here is the design, and the veneers I’m using. Light, medium and dark green for the foliage and stems, bloodwood, bubinga and satinwood for the flowers.  The background will be swirled mahogany.  I’ll add a cross-banded border as I did on the last one too.

If you’ve followed my marquetry adventures the past few months you’ll recognize the main rose as one I did for a sand shading practice exercise.  The marquetry packet is 9″ x 12″, for scale.  Adding a border later will make this about 3″ wider and longer when completed.

The rose from this design

The rose from this design

Once I had all of the veneer sheets laminated with newsprint I shoved the whole gooey mess into the press to “cook”.  I’ll leave it like this overnight, then assemble the packet for cutting next week.

The clamping and drying parts aren't very entertaining.  Getting it into the press with it sticking your hands is jolly good fun though.

The clamping and drying parts aren’t very entertaining. Getting it into the press with it sticking your hands is jolly good fun though.

Meanwhile, I need to start something else.  I wonder what I could do with this?

I found this in my secret stash from a million years ago and smoothed it up.  I can think of one or two good uses for it...

I found this in my secret stash from a million years ago and smoothed it up. I can think of one or two good uses for it…

 

 

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Just a quickie

I moved the Mallow flower picture along to the next phase today, which mostly involved a short burst of frenzied work and then a lot of nothing while the glue dries.  I love the sound of glue drying, it’s my favorite shop sound.

IMG_0235

Assembled mallow flower picture, just needing a couple of tiny repairs, and mastic.

Here is where we left off, the glue face of the picture facing up.  At this point I have it glued face down to the assembly board.  I patched a couple of spots where the banding was wonky, then I mixed up some “mastic”, which is Walnut sanding dust, black tempra powdered paint, hot hide glue and hot water.  Then I spackled the back of the picture, to fill any saw kerfs and gaps.  The Wenge on the border was also super thin, so I filled the height difference.

This looks like butt, right?

This looks like butt, right?

I block sanded the mastic to make sure it was flat and smooth after it dried.  I also cut a piece of Cherry veneer for the back of the panel.  I’m still undecided about whether this is a sample for the shop wall, or the start of a small cabinet.  To keep my options open I’m veneering both sides of a 1/4″ MDF panel.

Cherry backer veneer -- this is what you'll see on the inside of the door, if in fact this ever becomes a door.

Cherry backer veneer — this is what you’ll see on the inside of the door, if in fact this ever becomes a door.

The glue up is always a little frantic.  I NEARLY GLUED IT FACE DOWN.  Whoops, that would have sucked.  Instead it’s just extra glue on the show face to scrape off.  That’s it, glue is drying and I’ve started another project, sans marquetry.  How that project came to be will be a funny, or maybe telling, story.

 

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Progress on the picture

I’ve made some progress on the marquetry picture I’m working on.  Sunday I sawed out the remainder of the picture and began assembling it.

My shop motivation has been really low lately — but my family and work commitments have been at an all time high, so that probably shouldn’t surprise me.  But it does.  Go figure.

If you have forced yourself to parse some of my earlier gibble you may recall that I had a hard time learning to saw with the “coarse” 32tpi blade in the marquetry chevalet.  A friend equated it to a high powered sport bike with a fast throttle.  That’s pretty much it, and the consequences of a fast wrist twist are about the same.  You’ll blow right through whatever is in front of you in the blink of an eye.  It takes a very gentle touch, especially on tight turns.

First set of elements sawn out of the packet.  I since decided to swap the central colors, using the red for the rays and the brown for the stigma.

First set of elements sawn out of the packet. I since decided to swap the central colors, using the red for the rays and the brown for the stigma.

My sawing is far from perfect, but I’m able to erase the layout line with the kerf most of the time.  With the “piece-by-piece” method – which I both dread and eagerly anticipate to in equal parts.  Piece-by-piece involves cutting out the background, then cutting each piece separately — as opposed to the Boulle or stack cutting method I’m using.  The advantage is less waste and you can make multiple finished parts at once.  The challenge is that the sawing needs to be dead accurate or the parts won’t fit.

But that is a digression.

One problem I’ve had in the past is the as parts are removed from the stack of veneers it gets loose and hard to manage.  I use tape to reinforce it as I go, but I tried something new this time.  I got a tin of veneer nails from Patrick Edwards and pinned the stack of veneers.  This was a great help.

French Veneer Nails.

French Veneer Nails.

About three hours of sawing gave me a giant stack of veneer parts.  I started assembling them using shelf paper as an intermediate step.  I figured I would need to sand shade this to make it look right, and the first assembly bore that out.  It looks bland and loses a lot of the details in the leaves without shading.

The flower looks flat, and the leaves just look like a big green blob.  Time to fire up a skillet of sand.

The flower looks flat, and the leaves just look like a big green blob. Time to fire up a skillet of sand.

After an hour or so of carefully burning my little bits of veneer, and wetting them to “re-hydrate” and flatten them, I re-assembled the same parts.  I think this makes a giant improvement.

Same parts with sand shading completed

Same parts with sand shading completed

It’s hard to judge the right amount of scorching while I’m doing it.  The sand leaves a white dust on the veneer, and it isn’t until you see it assembled that it’s clear that you’ve done it right (or not).  It’s just practice and experience though, I know I’ll get a better sense for it before long.  It’s also surprising how quickly different veneers react to the heat.  The white petals (Holly maybe?) go really fast, the green dyed veneer for the leaves takes much longer.  And I’ve realized that faster is better.  The first hot plate I used didn’t get hot enough, it would take 20 or 30 second per piece.  That also caused a huge amount of warping, bubbling of the paper reinforcement and charing of the glue.  I’m at 5 to 10 seconds to get most pieces done, that’s much better.  I think I should actually be a bit hotter still.

Getting closer.  I need to find the rest of the pieces, and make replacements for the ones that are lost.

Getting closer. I need to find the rest of the pieces, and make replacements for the ones that are lost.

So I’ve probably got two more hours of work to get this assembled on the shelf paper.  I lost a few parts, and will need to make patches.  Then I’ll get this glued to the assembly board and think about adding a border and making this into a finished panel I can use in a small cabinet.  Or I’ll have a veneer fire in the driveway, you never know.

 

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I came, I sawed

I’m going to do another marquetry picture.  For practice.  Again.

I really (really) want to do a “real” project, but I need to get some more practice time in first.

The design for this came from a flower coloring book.  I traced it a couple of times, tweaking a few little details to get it to something I liked (and believed I could saw well enough).  It’s going to be a larger panel than I’ve done before, 8.5″ x 11″.  I picked out a very pale white veneer (probably Maple) for the petals, Bubinga for the colored rays, and a dyed red veneer for the anther.  I was careful to select the show faces when laminating on the reinforcing paper, and I dutifully made a reversed drawing for the pattern.  I’ll either saw it out or set it afire this weekend.

Design for the next marquetry panel.  The original drawing is on the right, my tracing is on the left.

Design for the next marquetry panel. The original drawing is on the right, my tracing is on the left.

But I really need to do a real project.  I don’t know if I’m at a loss of ideas, or if I have too many ideas.  Knowing me, it’s probably both.  Here are the ideas that have been going on in my head lately:

A reprise of the coffee cup cabinet, but with a marquetry panel on the door instead of a bookmatched panel.  That was a fun project, and it came out nicely.  I actually through about doing this particular flower design for the door of it.  I may still, the design isn’t quite big enough, but I can add banding and what-not to make the finished panel bigger.  What-not is a particular speciality of mine apparently.  (and you have to say “sepciality” with a British accent, spee-see-hal-ity).

Along the same lines, I have an idea to make a cabinet to store DVDs.  I have a great marquetry design in mind that I downloaded from the UK marquetry society.  My thinking is that this would be a frame-and-panel carcase.  The frame would be Cherry or Walnut, and the panels would be some sort of figured Maple, with the marquetry design on the front.

Marquetry design for another project

Marquetry design for another project

Astute readers will probably recognize the main rose bud in the picture from a recent practice panel.

My last practice panel

My last practice panel

So those two cabinets are fairly obvious projects, but I also have at least six other projects in mind.  A dutch tool chest (with a marquetry design on the inside of the lid), the Blacker House Serving Table I drew plans of recently, a cool tool tote that I bought plans for, another utility cabinet for the shop for my table saw accessories, a Wharton Esherick (ish) stool, a pair of casement windows, and let’s not forget about the bookcase for my wife.

The casement window is a funny story.  My shop has El-Cheapo (TM) aluminum sliding windows.  Last week a bee was buzzing around, and I went to swat it and blew the glass out.  Too much coffee I guess.  So I could replace it with a big-box-store plastic slider, or I could figure out how to make nice windows for my house by practicing on the shop.  You already know where my brain goes.

By the way, the bookcase is a funny situation too.  I realized, luckily just before buying a lot of very expensive 6/4 wide Q/S White Oak, that because of the turn from the hallway into the guest bedroom I couldn’t actually get the bookcase where I wanted to put it.  So a redesign is necessary.

I have to say it.  I also just want to go buy wood.  The local wood store has some nice clear vertical grain Douglas Fir, 4/4 x 12″ wide (tool chest!), as well as narrower 8/4 and 10/4.  And piles of Sapele.  Both of those could be nice to make windows…but do I really want to spend $300 on wood to make a window? (Yes!)  Oh, and I recently watched a couple of episodes of The Woodwright’s Shop where Roy made a neat standing desk from construction lumber.  I spend all day at a desk, and I don’t really like standing up in any case, but I still want to build that.

Maybe I’ll just go buy a load of wood tomorrow.  I’ll get enough for all of these projects.  Cherry, Fir, White Oak, Sapele.  Maybe a couple of Monterey Pine slabs to play with.  Then I have options.  No room to work, and my wife probably won’t speak to me, but I’ll have options.

Veneer for the new marquetry panel is in the press being laminated to newsprint to reinforce it.

Veneer for the new marquetry panel is in the press being laminated to newsprint to reinforce it.

 

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James Brown Is Not In My Shop

Regular readers of my blog, who already deserve sympathy for wading through endless drivel here, will have noticed I haven’t posted anything in the past couple of weekends.  Truth be told, I’ve been in a bit of a funk and it’s had me stalled.  Hopefully I’m moving past that, because it’s time to Get Up Offa That Thing.

I’ve been stalled on what seems like the simplest of projects, making a press for marquetry.  Maybe it’s too simple, just three square frames put together with mortise and tenon joints.  I got stuck on the wood.  I don’t like the though of spending $7+ per board foot when I need probably 25 to 30 board feet total for a simple shop appliance.  I thought about using green construction lumber, but every time I looked at 4 x 6 fir beams with splits, knots and oozing sap I lost my enthusiasm.  I thought about just making a simple welded steel frame, and probably should have done that, but I wanted wood on this.  And my TIG welder has a leak in the water hose.  Gotta fix that.

Long story made interminable, I finally bought some salvage 4 x 6 fir beams from a 100 year old barn that had been dissembled.  It was still too much money, but I’m over the hump.

Two 4" x 6" beams from an old barn.  I think I paid extra for the peeling paint and nails.

Two 4″ x 6″ beams from an old barn. I think I paid extra for the peeling paint and nails.

I spent the better part of a day wire brushing off dirt and loose paint, digging out rusted nails and laying out cuts to avoid the knots (there weren’t many) and nails (there were a ton).  Yeah, it was a pain in the butt, but Papa Don’t Take No Mess.

The number of nails in these was sort of unbelievable.   I tried to avoid using the heavily nailed sections where the Boy Scouts held their Jamboree practicing for their Nailing Merit Badge, but geez…

I laid out my rough cuts, six at 30″ and six at 19″.  A couple of these look a little dicy and I don’t think their will be enough slid wood left.  One of the short pieces is on the bench for open-nail surgery when I took this picture.

Rough cut to length

Rough cut to length

I dug out the nails I could see, then used my #6 to take off the skin and make sure I had all of the nail bits out (I didn’t).  It’s a lot easier to resharpen the hand plane than the power tool.

Pretty, but probably not enough strength left in this part.

Pretty, but probably not enough strength left in this part.

After a lot of sweat and dust I got the crust off of the boards, and established my reference edge and face on all of them.  Amazingly, there is a lot of really pretty old growth vertical grain fir here.  Unfortunately, I’m short at least two of the short pieces for the uprights.  Not sure what to do about that yet, although I’m pretty sure I’m not going to go buy more of this reclaimed fir.  It’s a crazy amount of work to get to usable material.

Stock cleaned  and squared on two faces, ready for final dimensioning.

Stock cleaned and squared on two faces, ready for final dimensioning.

The next goal (besides taking pictures that are in focus) will be to re-saw these to the right width and thickness, then plane them smooth and square.  I’m waiting for the replacement blade for my bandsaw to arrive, because the last one had an unfortunate encounter with several nails.  I’m probably going to skip the arched top in my design, I just want to get this built and put it to work.

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Veneer Press

I’ve been in a bit of a funk lately and haven’t had time in the shop — but I have been thinking about what I want to do next.  I’m ready (ready-ish) to do a more complex marquetry project that will be an actual finished piece and not just practice (or kindling).  To do that I need a better way to to be able to clamp large sheets of veneer when laminating paper onto it, and for clamping larger marquetry panels.  Juggling a dozen clamps isn’t my idea of fun, although I guess that begs the question of what is my idea of fun.  Let’s let that one go for now.

Making a press should be a simple enough job, although I’m always looking for any opportunity to complicate things.  Really any wood is OK, and I was on the verge of buying green construction lumber for it at the home center but just couldn’t reconcile myself to it when I looked at all of the knots, splits and oozing sap.  Also not my idea of fun.  While I’m trying to decide on stock I ordered the hardware and drew up an idea in CAD.  The hardware is Jorgenson 12″ press screws.  I’m actually pleased with the quality, I saw some off-brand ones and the threads were really poorly made, these are crisp and smooth.

The design is simple.  It’s a series of three square frames, each with two screws.  The lower platen will be removable so the press can be packed away and not take up too much room when I don’t need it.  I may actually make a bracket so I can hang then on the wall out of the way.  The joinery is twin tenons into through mortises.  I’ll pin the joints with pegs.

CAD model for a Marquetry Press

CAD model for a Marquetry Press

The press will handle up to 24″ x 36″ panels, way more than I can even anticipate doing right now.  The arched tops on the upper crossmember add some work, but I think they look nice.  Next chance I get I’ll go lumber shopping and see what I can find.  In the meantime I drew up some simple plans to get me focused.  It might be overbuilt, but I don’t think it’s under-built.

Plans for a marquetry press

Plans for a marquetry press

 

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Marquetry Experiments Wrap-Up

Earlier this week I wrote about my latest marquetry practice.  While I can certainly stand to practice many, many different aspects of marquetry there were a few specific areas that I was really interested in.

First, sawing with a “coarse” 32 tip blade.  This is a control issue for me, and the results are in on that: the coarse blade is substantially faster and with more practice I think I’ll learn to control the “wandering willies”.    The second goal was to practice sand shading, which is probably self-apparent.  Sand shading is conceptually simple but the subtleties of how parts are shaded it an art.  Finally, I wanted to do a marquetry design in the Boulle style where all of the layers in the packet were utilized.

Andre-Charles Boulle built some absolutely insanely ornate furniture in his day.  He would have packets of wood, brass, pewter, bone and tortoiseshell that would be used in different combinations either on the same piece of furniture or to make a second piece of furniture the inverse of the first.  For example, one application would have a tortoiseshell background with brass filigree and the other would show the reverse – brass background and tortoiseshell filigree.  My approach is simplistic, a single rosebud design and four layers of veneer — two light and two dark.  The rose is an element from a larger design I want to use on a real project.

First the sand shading.  I looked at the drawing of the rose and marked where I thought the shading should go.  For petals that were clearly under an adjacent petal that was clear enough.  For petals that are made of several pieces with the intent of showing the piece curled at the edge it was more of a judgement call for me.

Rosebud pattern marked to indicate the shading

Rosebud pattern marked to indicate the shading

After seeing the result I’d probably make some different decisions in a few places, but that’s the point right?  The actual process of sand shading is as exciting as you would imagine.  The obvious part: stick the area to be shaded into the sand until it darkens to your liking.  The less obvious part: sometimes it’s hard to shade the area you want.  For example, a crescent moon shape where you want the inside of the curve shaded, but the tips not at all.  You can mound the sand or scoop it up in a spoon to try to get it to the spot you want, but I need more practice still.

The other non-obvious part is that the heat from the sand makes the little jigsaw puzzle pieces turn into crunchy curly fries.  Especially long narrow parts (think “flower parts”).  What I’ve been doing is to sand shade a part, and if it curls I moisten it with a little water on my fingers.  As the piece relaxes I gently (“crack”, “s#$%t”) flatten it on the parts tray.  I hold it there for a minute, pressing it flat.  Then I move on to sand shading the next piece.  If the flattened piece is still behaving nicely after a few minutes I’ll assemble it into the temporary composition on shelf paper.

Starting to assemble the design

Starting to assemble the design

As long as the pieces are flat, have any bubbles in the paper facing I added scraped off, and bits of sand removed, the shelf paper makes a great temporary assembly process.  It adds extra steps in the process over what we learned in class, but it’s a necessary crutch for me right now.

I had far fewer problems with the paper facing I laminated on bubbling up this time.  Previously I got big bubbles in the paper on nearly every piece, like this:

Pieces from the last project showing the bubbled and lifter paper facing

Pieces from the last project showing the bubbled and lifter paper facing

The difference, I think, is two things.  First, I was extra careful to use the least amount of glue I could.  I probably had it slightly more diluted too.  The process we used in class was to apply glue to the veneer, lay a piece of newsprint into the glue, cover it with another piece of paper and use a dry fingernail brush to rub the lamination together to force any air or excess glue out.  I added another step which was to press the layers overnight between two cauls.  That also helped counteract the natural curl from the lamination.

Further along in the sand shading and assembly process

Further along in the sand shading and assembly process

The sand shading process took me close to three hours.  Crazy, right?  About 160 pieces of charred wood.  That included the shading, some piece sorting to figure out what-goes-where, and lots of wetting-and-flattening of potato chip parts.  It also included several rounds of back-stretching and one particularly entertaining session of laying on the concrete floor looking for a missing part.  I found it.

Design sawn, sand shaded and temporarily assembled (face down) on shelf paper.

Design sawn, sand shaded and temporarily assembled (face down) on shelf paper.

This view is the “glue face”, it will ultimately get glued to the substrate.  So I went through the usual drill of putting blue tape on the glue face to hold all the pieces in place, then removed the shelf paper from the show face, and glued that down to the kraft-paper-covered pattern board.

Once that bit of indirection was accomplished I had the parts firmly attached to the kraft paper and the glue face showing again.  It’s time for filling the saw kerf with “mastic”.  I’m using diluted hot hide glue, fine sanding dust and a bit of powdered black tempera paint.  Not tempura, that would be weird and I don’t the the panko would work as well as sanding dust for a filler.

I upgraded my “mastic tools” to be closer to what we used in class.  The bowl is a silicon rubber bowl used in the dental industry for mixing mold compounds.  It was cheap on eBay, although I had to buy a set of three.  I guess I have backups.  The putty knife I ground so it fit the bottom of the bowl, it works really well for mixing.

Mastic setup.  Silicon rubber bowl, modded putty knife, powdered plack paint and fine walnut sawdust.

Mastic setup. Silicon rubber bowl, modded putty knife, powdered plack paint and fine walnut sawdust.

The mixing process is simple, although I need to work on quantity and proportions.  Put a tiny bit of boiling water in the bowl, use the glue brush to swirl some hot hide glue into the water.  Add a tiny bit of black paint and enough sanding dust to make a consistency like chocolate pudding.  Mix well, then add more sawdust until you have something closer to joint compound.  I used a bit too much black I think, and mixed waaaaay too much. Start with a teaspoon of water, ending up with maybe two teaspoons of liquid after swirling in the glue brush — maybe less.  You don’t need a lot of mastic to fill the kerfs, and you don’t want to spend a lot of time sanding to produce the dust to make the mix.

Then, obviously I guess, use the spatula to force the mix into the kerfs, and scrape off any excess.  I usually (*lightly*) block sand it after the mastic is completely dry to remove any lumps or ridges.

Mastic applied to the glue side

Mastic applied to the glue side

On with the show…  Cut the kraft paper around the outside of the design to free it from the pattern board.

Completed design ready to be glued to a piece of plywood

Completed design ready to be glued to a piece of plywood

Clamped up and drying

Clamped up and drying

One of my next projects is to build a veneer press to make clamping these things simpler.  The screws are ordered, I just need to get wood and decide how to build it.

Out of the press, the next step is to wet the kraft paper and scrape it off, exposing the design finally.  It takes me about three rounds of wetting and scraping with a single edge razor to get a clean surface.

Scraping off the moistened paper facing

Scraping off the moistened paper facing

I finished this by brushing on a couple of coats of clear shellac, sanding lightly, and repeating.  I’ll need to assemble my thoughts and learn to French Polish in the future.  Good, something else to practice!

Here is the finished panel.  I’m happy with the overall result, although I see several things wrong.  I won’t belabor the mistakes, this was just for practice and learning.

Finished Panel

Finished Panel

What’s next?  My first priority is to do some shop organization.  I have a few tools that don’t have a place to be put away, so the horizontal surfaces in the shop are collecting things.  I’ll probably set up another practice exercise to work on my sawing — something where the shape is critical.  I want to start on a real project, using marquetry, in a couple of weeks.  Just as soon as I build a storage cabinet for tools and a veneer press.  I’m leaning toward a wall cabinet to store DVDs with a marquetry panel on the front.  I haven’t been able to reconcile marquetry and Greene & Greene into a design so this cabinet will have a different aesthetic than my recent furniture projects.

One more cuppa, then I’m going to the lumberyard for plywood.

 

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