Posts Tagged With: Saw Chest

Saw Chest, Adding a Skirt

I ran to the store and picked up more white pine.  This stuff is awful.  I picked through all the stock to find the straightest boards – which isn’t to say these were straight.  But they were straight enough, I planed them up square and cut the ogee into the top edge.  I have that molding plane working pretty well now.

My biggest job today was to re-grind and sharpen the blade in my #8.  I nicked it yesterday and took a small chip out of it. It’s a Hock blade, and it took a lot of work to get it back in shape.  It’s sharper now.  I flattened the back, which was pretty far out of flat.  What’s up with that?

I cut the miters with my new Langdon miter box.  The saw needs to be resharpened, but it’s usable.  I glued the face of each, and glued the end grain at the miter too.  I nailed the skirting on, including sinking a couple of brads into each miter.

It’s not a thing of beauty, but it’s going to be functional.  I’m looking forward to working with some nicer wood in the future.

The lid is going to be a frame-and-panel piece with a skirt.  I think I’ll do bridal joints on the ends of the rails and stiles, it will be good practice as I haven’t done that before.  After that I just need to make some dividers to hold the saws and paint the chest.

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Saw Chest – The Bottom

I just installed the bottom on my saw chest.  I skipped the bead and just fit the boards together with tongue and groove joints.  I wasn’t happy with the tiny bead, and the larger one wasn’t cutting well.

I nailed the bottom on with some 3D headless brads – cut nails – from Tools for Working Wood.  4D might have been better, but I didn’t order any in that size.  Honestly, I thought I showed considerable restraint in only ordering the 4 sizes of nails I got.  Their Cabinet Maker’s Hammers were calling my name.  Loudly.

When I was a kid I was forever getting into my Dad’s tools.  As it turn out I don’t seem to have a nail hammer, so I borrowed my son’s.  I knew I should have ordered those hammers from TFWW.

I left the bottom boards long the way Chris Schwarz shows on his toolbox.  I started using a crosscut saw to cut off the excess, but it was unwieldily and I bailed.  It would either break off the excess while I was sawing, gouge the side of the case, or undercut the bottom.  I used a scrub plane to take off the excess, which was more work than sawing, but I was more comfortable with it.  I bit of work with my block plane to even things out and that was that.

Next up I started on the skirt for the bottom. I’m using 1″ x 3″ white pine from the Home Despot.  I swear, they must “dimension” this stuff while it’s still growing, every piece is twisted, bowed or cupped.  Sometimes all three.  Out of a 10′ section I got two 13″ pieces for the ends, the others were twisted beyond saving.  Back to the store…

But I took some time to tune up a molding plane I picked up from Josh at Hyperkitten.  It does a nice job, and will dress up the skirting nicely.

So what’s left?  Buy more wood, finish the skirting and make a lid.  I have no idea what I’m going to do for the lid.  The easy way out would be to just have a single board, but I may try to do something a little nicer.


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Saw Chest – Bottom Experiments

I snuck a few minutes in the shop to experiment with what I want to do for the bottom of my saw chest.

I cut a bunch of 12″ long 1″ x 4″ white pine boards, and shot one end square.  I’m not going to bother squaring up all 6 faces as I don’t think it’s necessary, but I wanted to make sure one end of each piece was square so I could line them up.

Then I planed one face – just to remove the dirt, and assorted dings and dents from the big box store.

Then I did a quick sharpen job on the blades for my Stanley 48 T&G plane, and made some test cuts.  it seemed to work OK, but the result is a little rougher than I’d like.  I’ve read that this is typical, but I’m going to spend a little more time honing the blades to see if I can get better results.

Also, the tongue doesn’t fit into the groove without persuasion – but it’s easily corrected with a few swipes of the shoulder plane.  I suspect that I can tweak things slightly to get the fit correct right off the plane.  Used hand tools always always seem take a bit of fiddling to get the working properly.  Not surprising if you figure that these have been in a box or sitting on a shelf somewhere  for 50 years.

The tongue cut seems to do a better job than the groove.

There is some tearout in the groove.  Sharper blades, more care to keep the plane vertical, and perhaps a slightly lighter cut will probably help a lot.

The last step is to cut a small 1/16″ bead.  Again, this tool probably needs to be a bit sharper.  I can only use it in one direction, so the odds are I’m going against the grain sometimes – which leaves a fuzzy surface in places.

Aesthetically I’m trying to decide between one bead or two.  One seems too small and dainty.  The only other beading plane I have is a 1/4″, but it’s too big to use next to the T&G joint (no clearance).  Maybe I’ll try a ship lap with a larger bead?


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Dovetails – Actually Using Them!

I started making a chest to keep my saws in, and it’s turned out to be great practice making dovetails.  These are far from perfect, but three of the joints fit together with almost no paring to get the fit nice.  The fourth, well apparently it shifted slightly when I was marking out the pins and I ended up having to pare away one side of half the pins, leaving a small gap on the other side.  Rats.

Three of the sides look like this.  A spot or two where the fit could be better.  The spacing is uneven because my layout and sawing needs more practice.

Here is the carcase, glued and planed on the outside.  After I put on the skirt and paint it I think it will look really nice.  I’m off to Home Despot to get some stock for the skirt and bottom boards.


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